Can you grow rhododendrons from cuttings

Then you can plant them and watch them go! I hope you enjoyed this lesson—now go get right with Nature!! See you next time on Propagation Island! What is an azalea?

Plants Database. Success with Rhododendrons and Azaleas Rev. Portland, OR: Timber Press. Getting Started with Rhododendrons and Azaleas Reprint ed. Tips for Beginners: Success with Rooting Cuttings.

American Rhododendron Society. Rhododendron spp. You must be logged in to post a comment. Sites at Penn State. Introduction to rhododendrons and azaleas Although considered distinctly different by many horticulturalists and gardeners, botanists place both rhododendrons and azaleas in the genus Rhododendron. Here are a couple of species: Rhododendron maximum, a native of eastern U.

Leave a Reply Cancel reply You must be logged in to post a comment. You can re-pot back into the same pot if you trim off up to a third of the roots to make room for fresh potting compost. If pruning is necessary to restrict size, follow the guidelines in our profile on pruning evergreen shrubs Many rhododendrons respond well to hard cutting back ; response is best from deciduous azaleas and rough-barked rhododendrons such as R.

After cutting back, mulch, feed if soil conditions are poor, and keep well-watered to encourage new growth. Propagation Only species rhododendrons come true from seed.

Take cuttings with a heel, and then wound the stem to encourage rooting Cuttings of evergreen azaleas are taken in mid-to-late summer. Deciduous azaleas are harder to propagate from cuttings; commercial growers take cuttings in early spring, and grow plants on in frames for up to two seasons before planting out Grafting is used where cuttings cannot be rooted. Saddle grafting which involves cutting an inverted V in the scion stem is done in January to March, and spliced grafting is done in spring Layering can take 15 months to two years some smooth-barked rhododendrons may take three years until rooted.

Check layered shoots in the autumn of the second year. If not well-rooted, partially sever and lift in the following spring as growth begins Seed propagation: sow into pots in January and leave the seed uncovered on the surface of the compost.

Place the pots in a heated propagator. Cultivar Selection Early flowering up to the end of April Rhododendron barbatum : spreading shrub or small tree with glossy, dark-green leaves.

Mid-season flowering May Rhododendron macabeanum AGM: Evergreen tree rhododendron with huge trusses of creamy to deep yellow flowers in mid-spring and large leaves to 30cm 12in long; eventual height of 15m 50ft and spread of 6m 20ft.

Late flowering early June to mid-July or later R. Rhododendrons can easily be grown in containers, as long as they are watered regularly. Problems Non-flowering and bud drop Rhododendron flower buds start forming in late summer. A short period of dry conditions at this time may cause flower buds to fail to form , or buds may only partially form, drying up and dropping unopened the following spring Prevent this by mulching and watering thoroughly and regularly during dry periods from July onwards Leaf drop Leaf drop can occur following a period of drought and is usually preceded by drooping and rolling of the leaves.

The oldest leaves are the first to drop. Higher leaves may show browning at the leaf tip or edge. Leaf drop can also occur following extended periods of waterlogging As with all evergreen shrubs, each year a proportion of the foliage mainly older leaves is shed in spring and summer. This is normal and not a cause for concern Leaf droop Rhododendron leaves may droop in severe cold, but usually recover with a return to milder conditions Other problems Windy , cold or wet weather can cause leaf scorch and flowers can be damaged by rain and frost Nutrient deficiencies may cause yellowing foliage known as chlorosis Vine weevil can be troublesome especially for container-grown rhododendrons , as can rhododendron leafhopper, scale insects and the diseases that affect rhododendron such as bud blast , azalea gall and honey fungus.

See also You may also like. Azaleas indoors. Rhododendron diseases. Rhododendron leafhopper and bud blast. Rhododendrons on alkaline soils. In order to have a larger area for callus development, I cut away a thin sliver of bark from both sides of the bottom part of the cutting. I use a sharp knife so as not damage to the remaining bark since that tissue needs to be healthy for the new callus tissue to grow.

Remove a thin sliver of bark from both sides. I submerge the cuttings in that solution for 5 minutes which usually kills most bugs and mold spores. Then I rinse the cuttings well and shake off excess water. Since the cuttings will remain enclosed inside plastic bags for many months, sterilization minimizes potential problems.

Try Making a a few leaf-bud cuttings too. Hormones: Dip cuttings for 5 seconds in Dip 'N Grow To encourage root formation, most rhododendrons need a little help. I use the liquid rooting concentrate called Dip 'N Grow.

That's not usually a problem, but if there has been a dry spell, water the plants well the day before you take the cuttings. The cuttings should be of the current year's growth, and they should be pliable enough that you can bend them to a degree angle.

If they are so stiff that they cannot bend without breaking, they are probably too "ripe" and will not root. Another indicator but not an infallible one is the color of the stem. As the wood ripens it becomes darker, usually brown. The wood of the cutting should be pale, usually white or light green. Try to take the cuttings from an upright growing branch. Ones from the side won't stand upright in the pot, and the foliage may touch the surface of the medium, creating disease problems.

Cuttings from young plants are likely to root more readily than those from old plants. If you don't plan on potting the cuttings immediately, put them in a plastic bag and pop them in the fridge, or simply put them in a container of water as you would a bunch of flowers.

Don't forget to identify them, either by writing the name on a lower leaf or by attaching a plastic pot marker. To prepare the medium, simply mix the dry ingredients and add water, preferably warm, until you have a moist but somewhat crumbly mixture.

Put the mix in the plastic pot and firm it but not too firmly so that its surface is flat and within an inch or so of the rim. To prepare the cuttings, make a right angled cut immediately below the leaf node. That's where a leaf has grown out from the stem, or where there is a little protrusion. Then use your sharp knife to remove a narrow strip of bark from about half an inch above the cut running down the cut.

The purpose is to expose a large area of the cambium layer where rooting occurs. Remove all but the top four leaves.